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Training the Dog 



BY 
ROBERT S. LEMMON 



NEW YORK 

McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 

1914 



.L4- 



Copyright, 1914, by 
McBaiDE, Nast & Co. 



Published March, 1914 

MAR 23 1914 

©aA362984 



A Word in Advance 

THEEE is no attempt in this book to 
cover exhaustively the whole sub- 
ject of dog training: that would be im- 
possible in any volume of reasonable 
size. Eather is the purpose to give sim- 
ple, straightforward directions which 
will enable the person inexperienced in 
such matters to bring up an ** all- 
around*' dog so that he will be obedient, 
cheerful, and master of all the accom- 
plishments that, exclusive of the hunt> 
ing field and the stage, can reasonably 
be demanded. 

Much of the material contained in the 
following pages appeared originally in 
abridged form in the columns of House 
<& Garden; for the privilege of pres- 
ent publication the author makes grate- 
ful acknowledgment to the editor of that 
magazine. E. S. L. 

New York, December, 1913. 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I GENERAL PRINCIPLES 1 

II THE PUPPY 12 

III "COME" AND "LIE DOWN" .... 21 

IV "HEEL" AND "FETCH" 33 

V TEACHING TRICKS ...... 44 

VI ADVANCED LESSONS 57 

VII THE ALL-'ROUND DOG 66 

VIII THE CHOICE OF A BREED .... 72 

IX THE DOG'S QUARTERS 95 

X GENERAL CARE 100 



THE ILLUSTRATIONS 

Make a real companion of your 
dog Frontispiece >^' 

PAQB 

*^ Shake hands*' 14,. 

The first position in **lie down" . . . 28 ^' 

Teaching to ''heel" 36 v- 

''Sitting up" .>...„.. 50'. 

Dachshund . > ;....,.. 62 • 

Scotch terrier . :• 62^ 

Airedale . . . ; 78 

Cocker spaniel 78 

Inadequate quarters 96 



TRAINING THE DOG 



Training the Dog 



Genebal Pbinciples 

UNLIKE Caesar's Gaul, all dogdom 
is divided into but two parts: 
trained dogs, and the vast majority. A 
cynical attitude ? Well — ^perhaps ; but do 
not misunderstand the word * drained" 
as it is here used. Many dogs are, it 
is true, taught to a certain extent. 
They will come when called — if they feel 
like it. They will bark, or lie down, or 
jump over a stick, or sit up when told 
to — if they are hungry and feel confi- 
dent of receiving some tid-bit as a re- 
ward for performing the trick. But 
1 



2 TEAINING THE DOG 

sucli dogs are not really trained: they 
have little or no conception of obedience 
for its own sake ; they comply with their 
owners' commands only because they 
foresee some personal gain by doing so. 
The most important thing that every 
dog must learn, providing he is to be- 
come a self-respecting and respected 
member of the household, is that what 
his master or mistress says is absolute 
law. Perhaps this may sound a bit ob- 
vious, but if it does, just stop and think 
of the few dog owners you know who 
have the slightest control over their pets 
when the latter prefer to follow their 
own inclinations. For example, Fido, 
or Eoger or Bruce has his natural in- 
stinct for hunting aroused by a carriage 
which rattles along the street, and he 
proceeds to depart from the family 
group on your friend's piazza at the 
rate of three jumps to the second and 
five barks to the jump. A chorus of 
feminine shrieks and masculine roars, 



GENEEAL PEINCIPLES 3 

all with Fido's name as motif, is added 
to the tumult; but Fido happily contin- 
ues his noisy career as unheeding and 
care-free as an English sparrow on a 
cornice, and he and the carriage vanish 
up the street in a cloud of dust. After 
the family ire has had time to cool down, 
Fido returns, for he is a knowing dog 
and abhors punishment. 

This is not an agreeable picture, al- 
though a tiresomely common one; and 
the worst of it is the blame is seldom 
placed where it really belongs — on the 
person or persons who have had charge 
of the dog's upbringing. Ninety per 
cent, of the worry, annoyance and dam- 
age caused by dogs in the average com- 
munity is directly attributable to the 
ignorance, indifference or what you will 
of their owners, who permit the forma- 
tion of bad habits and then, when the 
trouble has gone too far to be easily 
remedied, either give it up as a bad job 
or else, considering the dog an utterly 



4 TEAINING THE DOa 

unreasonable and unreasoning brute, 
adopt the unfair method of trying to 
beat it out of him by main strength. 

Successful dog training is an art 
which, while it requires certain innate 
qualities in the trainer who would at- 
tain the highest proficiency, can to a 
great extent be acquired by any normal 
person. It is not a thing to be gone into 
hit-or-miss, nor followed out assidu- 
ously for two days and then neglected 
for a month. In some ways a dog is 
extremely like a child, and he is quick to 
estimate the temperament of his owner 
and be guided accordingly. Treat him 
wisely and with due regard for his limi- 
tations, and he will respond with the best 
that is in him; be unreasonable or neg- 
lectful, and do not blame him if he goes 
wrong. 

Whether you wish a dog for a guard- 
ian, a companion or merely a playmate, 
he should have an adequate education, 
so fix firmly, definitely and ineradicably 



GENEEAL PEINCIPLES 5 

in your mind these three words, which 
are as guide-posts on the path to suc- 
cess as a trainer : patience, firmness and 
common sense. Too great stress cannot 
be laid on the absolute essentialness of 
these qualities. I wish that their prime 
importance could be drummed into the 
heads of dog owners in general for the 
sake of the trained as well as the trainer, 
because their application constitutes the 
underlying principle, the very founda- 
tion and bedrock of success in the han- 
dling of dogs. Let us briefly consider 
each in turn. 

Patience is just as necessary here as in 
the teaching of a child — ^perhaps more so, 
for the pupil's mental qualities are less 
highly developed than are the child's. 
There will be many times in the train- 
ing of even the most willing dog when 
your self-control will be taxed to the ut- 
most. The temptation to lose your tem- 
per will be almost irresistible, but — 
believe me — ^you must never yield to it. 



6 TRAINING THE DOG 

Once let it be evident to the dog (and 
he is astonishingly quick to realize such 
things) that you cannot always control 
yourself, and your hold over him is gone. 
Never shout at your dog, and never 
be angrily rough with him. Repetition, 
repetition, and yet more repetition — 
thus and thus only can the lessons be 
taught. 

Absolute firmness in enforcing com- 
mands does not imply harshness. It 
means simply that when an order is 
given and understood, obedience to it 
must be insisted upon. There must be 
no dallying, no hesitating on the part 
of the teacher, no halfway measures or 
compromises. The dog must learn that 
prompt and strict measures from which 
there is no escape will be employed if 
he seeks to shirk obedience. 

Common sense is perhaps less obvi- 
ously necessary than the other two 
qualities mentioned, but it is of great 
importance nevertheless. Do not ex- 



GENEEAL PRINCIPLES 7 

pect unreasonable things of your dog, 
and do not try to force him to do what 
is beyond his power. Do not act on im- 
pulse during the training period; take 
no step until you are sure whither it will 
lead you. 

Make it a point to be with your dog 
personally as much as possible, and if 
it can be arranged, always feed him 
yourself; for from the very first he 
should be trained by and look up to as 
master or mistress one person only. 
Too often all the members of the family 
wish to have a finger — or perhaps both 
hands^ — ^in bringing up a dog in the way 
he should go, with the result that a sub- 
ject which is none too easy at best is 
made doubly hard and puzzling to him. 
After all the lessons are thoroughly 
learned it is well enough to allow some- 
one else to put him through his paces at 
times; but until then, remember, one 
teacher and one only. 

Another frequently misunderstood 



8 TEAINING THE DOG 

point is the matter of suitably reward- 
ing the dog for going through his ao- 
complishments. It is a common — ^I 
might ahnost say usual — custom for an 
inexperienced trainer to reward the suc- 
cessful efforts of his pupil by tid-bits 
that appeal strongly to the latter 's love 
for his own digestive organization. 
While this method often secures satis- 
factory results while the food is in im- 
mediate prospect and the dog hungry 
enough to work for it, yet the whole 
principle on which such a means of in- 
ducing obedience depends is faulty. In- 
stead of the dog doing as he is ordered 
from a sense of duty, he obeys sim- 
ply from personal gastronomic reasons. 
Let him lose his appetite or the prospect 
of being fed with dainties for the slight 
trouble of coming when called or heed- 
ing the command to **beg,'' and your 
control of his actions will probably be 
extremely conspicuous by its absence. 
Never make food an offered reward for 



GENEEAL PEINCIPLES 9 

obedience. A kindly pat and a few 
words of praise will be keenly appreci- 
ated by tbe dog which is sensibly 
handled, and in the long run they are 
by far the best. 

The question of proper methods of 
punishing for disobedience may well be 
mentioned here, although it will be 
treated more definitely in connection 
with the various lessons. In general, it 
is hopeless to try and train a dog solely 
by persuasion. Force must at times be 
resorted to, and pain inflicted in order 
that the penalty for wrong-doing may be 
sufficient in the dog's mind to deter him 
from leaving the straight and narrow 
path of rectitude. Do not for a moment 
think, however, that I recommend a fre- 
quent resort to the whip or other harsh 
means of punishment. On the contrary, 
that should be employed only as a last 
resort. If the dog has been brought up 
to realize that a sharp reprimand means 
something, a solid 'talking to'' will 



10 TEAINING THE DOG 

usually be all that is required. And 
when you do have to use the whip, be 
very sure that the culprit realizes why 
you are punishing him, else you will do 
far more harm than good. Watch, too, 
that your temper does not rise unduly — 
many a dog is spoiled in that way. 

And now just a few words as to the 
best age at which to obtain a dog. In 
general, it is advisable to get a puppy 
of between six weeks and six months, the 
exact age being determined largely by 
your opportunities and desires. Pup- 
pies of from six to twelve weeks are 
more susceptible to sickness than when 
older, yet no one should hesitate on this 
account, for a normally sound dog of 
any age is seldom afflicted with any seri- 
ous malady if proper care is given. 
Furthermore, there are very distinct ad- 
vantages in securing a pup soon after 
he is weaned and before he has had an 
opportunity to contract any bad habits. 
There is more than a modicum of truth 



GENERAL PRINCIPLES 11 

in the old saw about the difficulty of 
teaching an old dog new tricks, and the 
beginner will do well not to start with 
that handicap. 



n 

The Puppy 

YOUR puppy has arrived. Be he 
Dalmatian or dachshund, bulldog 
or beagle, he is fat, unsteady on his feet, 
and probably inclined to bewail his ab- 
sent mother and generally gloomy out- 
look on life with heartrending whim- 
pers which soon rise to a series of 
shrill yells that disturb the family 
and the neighbors. This is a perfectly 
natural if somewhat disagreeable habit 
of eight-weeks-old puppies, so even at 
this early stage of the game you have 
an opportunity to prove your fitness as a 
dog trainer by exercising patience and 
self-control. Do not apply the flat of 
your hand nor yet a stick of kindling 
wood or an apple switch to the pup; do 

12 



THE PUPPY 13 

not, in these first days, even speak 
harshly to him or do anything else that 
will jar on his nervous system and 
thereby increase his unhappy mood. 
Instead, divert his mind by play, food 
and a comfortable place to sleep, and 
as the novelty of the strange situation 
wears off, so the pup^s wailing will 
gradually decrease in frequency and vol- 
ume. 

Spend as much time as possible with 
the youngster, of course allowing him to 
sleep undisturbed as much and as often 
as he will, for the sooner you gain an 
insight into his particular individual- 
ity the better. Watch the pup intelli- 
gently and you will see gradually de- 
veloping traits and peculiarities — ^in- 
quisitiveness, boldness or shrinking at 
sudden sounds and new sights, etc. — a 
knowledge of which will be of great 
value later on. Nor is this close as- 
sociation advised merely that the work 
of teaching may be made easier and 



14 TEAINING THE DOG 

more successful through an understand- 
ing of the pupil's personality: it will 
also tend to stimulate and increase very 
materially the intelligence with which 
the dog is endowed by nature. 

If the pup is inclined to he timid, 
take especial pains not to let him be 
frightened in any way whatever. A 
young puppy is extremely impression- 
able, and a severe fright will have a 
far more lasting effect on him than most 
people imagine. Do not, on the other 
hand, make a mollycoddle of the young- 
ster; simply accustom him by slow de- 
grees, always showing him that he is 
under your protection, to those sights, 
sounds and experiences which he does 
not understand. 

Probably, if yours is a normal, 
healthy pup of any of the more active 
breeds, he will, at the age of nine or ten 
weeks, show a propensity to worry, tear 
and chew curtains, shoestrings, and 
anything else soft and dangling that is 





'Shake hands" is one of the most easily taught 
tricks 



THE PUPPY 15 

within reach. This is but the awaken- 
ing of that instinct which in a natural 
state makes a dog's jaws and teeth his 
most valuable assets, so do not lose pa- 
tience. On the principle that *^out of 
sight is out of mind" remove either the 
temptation or the dog. If this does not 
suffice, and the habit grows worse, catch 
the pup in the act and, tapping him on 
the side of the jaw hard enough to make 
him look up in surprise, sharply order 
''Stop it!" A few repetitions of this 
will suffice to impress the youngster 
with the meaning of the words. 

As the puppy grows older he will in 
ninety-nine cases out of a hundred lose 
interest in the tearing game. Until 
then, merely curb the desire instead of 
trying to beat it out of him; for it has 
its bright side inasmuch as it is an in- 
dication of the spirit which the adult 
dog will possess. It is an old saying 
among bird-dog men that the more a 
pup tries to tear things the more 



16 TEAINING THE DOG 

spirited, ambitious and valuable be will 
become wben mature — a principle wbich 
bolds good witb otber breeds. 

With tbe exception of the one order 
mentioned above, and another lesson to 
be mentioned presently, do not under- 
take any real and consistent discipline 
until your dog is at least four months 
old. The brain of a pup of but ten or 
twelve weeks is too undeveloped to com- 
prehend the why and the wherefore of 
regular training, and it should not be 
taxed with remembering more than a 
very few things. But, even if the dog 
is not to be kept regularly in the house, 
it is quite essential that you take up at 
an early age the matter of 

EOVSE BREAKING 

The formation of cleanly habits about 
the house is a matter which cannot be 
overlooked, and in attaining it many 
homeopathic doses of prevention are 
worth more than a few allopathic ones 



THE PUPPY 17 

of dog whip. Sometimes the latter is 
necessary, but before resorting to it be 
perfectly sure that the culprit fully ap- 
preciates why he is being punished and 
what he should have done to avoid it, 
and then make the chastisement an 
adequate one. 

The first step in house breaking may 
be taken as soon as your pup arrives. 
If he is to be kept in the house, make 
it a point to see that you or someone 
else takes him outdoors for a while at 
reasonable intervals. This will aid 
greatly in the formation of proper 
habits, but when (as is certain to be the 
case sooner or later) the pup misbe- 
haves, drag him to the spot where the 
wrong-doing occurred, reprimand him 
sharply, and at once put him out-of- 
doors, leaving him there for five minutes 
or so before admitting him to the house 
again. 

The method just described is effec- 
tive in the majority of cases, and is the 



18 TEAINING THE DOG 

first that should be tried. If satisfac- 
tory results are not obtained, chain the 
dog up short at the place where he mis- 
behaved, leave him there alone with a 
scolding to think about for fifteen min- 
utes, then lead him outdoors and release. 
This method is based on the fact that 
most dogs, Imowing they have acted im- 
properly, hate to be forced to remain on 
the scene of the misdemeanor. Such 
enforced presence causes them consid- 
erable chagrin, which they will seek to 
avoid in the future. 

By following these instructions it will 
often be found possible successfully to 
house break a dog in two or three weeks, 
depending largely on how often the op- 
portunity to punish presents itself; but 
some cases require more drastic treat- 
ment. If the plans suggested do not ef- 
fect a cure, and if the pup nevertheless 
seems to realize in what respect he has 
done wrong yet continues to do so will- 
fully, then reprimand and switch him on 



THE PUPPY 19 

the spot, immediately thereafter put- 
ting Mm outdoors. Do not be afraid of 
being unceremonious about this, and be 
sure not to release the dog on the piazza 
or steps — take him all the way to the 
ground before letting him go. Other- 
wise he may get the idea that cleanly 
habits are required only when actually 
inside the house. 

Obviously, it is necessary during the 
course of house breaking, as well as 
later on, to watch for and heed any 
signs the dog may give of desiring to 
go outdoors. If you see him move to- 
ward the door, go at once and open it 
for him. With this encouragement he 
will quickly learn to make his wishes 
known. 

Before leaving the subject of the 
puppy per se, it may be well to speak of 
a mistake often made : giving the young- 
ster exercise immediately after a 
hearty meal. It is natural for a dog to 
sleep after feeding, as digestion goes on 



20 TEAINING THE DOG 

mucli better when at rest than when ac- 
tive. This applies equally to grown 
dogs and puppies, and in the case of the 
latter there is the added fact that the 
extra weight of the body caused by a 
good feed may be too much of a strain 
on the legs if they are required to sup- 
port it for any length of time. A 
young puppy's bones and joints are soft 
and easily overtaxed: many a case of 
rickets, ^*cow hocks" or knock-knees is 
directly traceable to keeping the young- 
ster too much on his feet. 



Ill 

'*Comb" and "Lie Down" 

WE will take it for granted that you 
have now had your puppy for 
several weeks, in which time you have 
gained some insight into his character, 
and he, on his side of the situation, has 
become thoroughly accustomed to his 
new surroundings and friends. Also it 
may he assumed that he is in normally 
good health and spirits, and not under- 
developed for his four or five months of 
age. It is time that his real education 
be commenced, and the first lesson he 
must learn is to obey the order to 

"COME" 

If you have not already done so, be- 
gin now to utter in a clear but natural 

21 



22 TEAINING THE DOG 

voice tlie single word **Conie" when- 
ever the pup shows an inclination to ap- 
proach you of his own accord. In a 
short time (varying, of course, with the 
youngster's brightness) he will associ- 
ate the spoken word with the act of com- 
ing to you, though as yet he does not 
understand it as a command which must 
be obeyed. 

Now take the pup to a small, closed 
room in a quiet part of the house, where 
there will be no distracting sights or 
sounds to draw his attention from the 
lesson he is to receive. Take also a 
suitable collar— to wearing which we 
will assume he has been accustomed — a 
piece of stout cord ten or fifteen feet 
long, and all the patience at your com- 
mand. Close the door and give the 
puppy a few minutes to explore the 
room if he feels disposed to do so. 
Then give him the word to ^'come/^ 
Probably he will heed it at once. If so, 
pat him a little to show your approval, 



'^COME" AND ''LIE DOWN" 23 

and when lie has moved away repeat the 
command. For the first few times the 
word will probably be heeded and then 
the pup will much prefer to go on about 
business of his own. 

This is the critical point. You must 
insist upon obedience or else the lesson 
and many others which follow it will go 
for naught. Eepeat the command once> 
to be certain your pupil has heard it, 
and the puppy still refusing to come, 
walk quietly to him and without any 
further remarks attach one end of the 
cord to his collar. Walk away a few 
feet with the other end of the cord and 
again order ''come'' following it at 
once with a steady shortening of the 
taut string. As soon as he feels the 
pull of the cord the pup will be sure to 
hang back and very likely cut up all 
kinds of antics. Do not mind this in 
the least ; do not hesitate a moment, but 
pull him steadily to you firmly but not 
roughly, repeating ''come'' in the usual 



24 TEAINING THE DOG 

tone. Then pat as before, move away 
a short distance if the dog does not 
move from the place to which he has 
been drawn, and again give the order. 
Wait an instant for him to come of his 
own accord, and if he refuses bring the 
cord into play again. 

Half a dozen repetitions of this pull- 
ing process may teach the pup the why 
and the wherefore of it, or they may 
not. In either case, stop after the 
sixth or seventh time, untie the cord and 
give your pupil a chance to regain his 
probably ruffled composure. Let him 
move about the room freely without any 
attempt on your part to control his ac- 
tions, and when he feels less dispirited, 
again bid him '^come/' resorting to the 
cord treatment as before if necessary. 

It is not well in most instances to pro- 
long this lesson for more than fifteen 
minutes with a young puppy; in the 
case of a mature dog I strongly advise 



''COM.W AND *^LIE DOWN'^ 25 

that you ^^stay with him^' until no glim- 
mer of doubt remains in his mind as to 
who is master. Throughout it is ab- 
solutely necessary that you refrain 
from all harshness of word or hand. 
Be kind but firm, insistent but not noisy, 
and do not move hurriedly about. 
Dogs are very easily affected by the 
temperament of their trainers and are 
quick to perceive the slightest giving 
way to irritation or impatience. 

When the lesson is over open the door 
and let the puppy out. Treat him ex- 
actly as if nothing out of the ordinary 
had happened and do not attempt an- 
other session with him for several 
hours at least. On the other hand, do 
not allow more than a day to elapse be- 
tween lessons, for growing puppies can 
forget a great deal in a short time. 
Continue the cord, collar and room 
treatment until you feel that you have 
the situation well in hand. Then take 



26 TEAINING THE DOG 

the pupil outdoors and test the 
thoroughness of your control over him 
under more distracting circumstances. 
You will probably encounter some diffi- 
culty under the new condition, but perse- 
vere until it is overcome. Practice this 
lesson often even after it is well mastered. 
Then omit the cord and make the dog 
come to you at command from increas- 
ingly great distances ; if at any time he 
refuses, at once attach the cord again 
and give him a strict and very thorough 
drill. Then try again without the cord. 
Perhaps you wonder why I have ad- 
vised that the *^come'' lessons should be 
given in a small room; the freedom 
from distracting influences may seem an 
insufficient reason. There is another 
and very good reason — the pup can^t 
get away from you. In the room you 
are always in a position to enforce com- 
mands without delay; outdoors you may 
not be. Eemember these principles 
throughout the training work: Never 



''COME" AND ''LIE DOWN'' 27 

give a command when you cannot en- 
force it, and never neglect to enforce it 
when once it is given. 

When your dog has been thoroughly- 
taught the lesson "come," and not until 
then, you may take up the second real 
step in his schooling — "lie down." 
There are several reasons why this 
should be the next thing on the program. 
In the first place, it is simple and easily 
enforced; also, it is practical and ab- 
solutely essential in the education of 
every well-mannered dog. And when I 
speak of "lie down" I mean lie down 
and stay down until permission is given 
to do otherwise. There is absolutely no 
excuse for the dog whose master makes 
any pretense to having him well 
trained, to hop up again three seconds 
(or three minutes) after he has been 
ordered to lie down, unless he is told 
to do so. Neither a person passing by, 
nor a dog fight down the street — ^no, not 
even a cat yowling on the front steps — 



28 TEAINING THE DOG 

should be sufficient cause to warrant a 
change of attitude. 

Perhaps to some people such strict- 
ness may seem harsh and unreasonable. 
It is neither. It is merely that old idea 
of implicit obedience carried a little far- 
ther, and, depend upon it, both dog and 
master will be happier thereby. For 
example, it is a comfort to you to know, 
when you stop at a friend's house for a 
few minutes, that by a word you can put 
Boze, or Terry, or whatever your dog's 
name may be, in a position where he 
cannot get into trouble by killing the 
family cat or digging ground moles on 
the front lawn. And Boze also will de- 
rive benefit from the period of inaction, 
on the principle that ten minutes of ly- 
ing down will cause him less physical 
anguish than one minute of dog whi] 
after he has unearthed the mole or sent 
the cat to the Happy Hunting Grounds. 

For the first lesson, take the dog to 
some place where you will be alone with 




The first position in "lie down' 



I 



'^COME" AND '^LIE DOWN'' 29 

him; the quiet room where you taught 
him to *^come" is the best. Kneel be- 
side him and placing your left hand 
across his hind quarters press down 
firmly, meanwhile taking his front feet 
together in the right hand and drawing 
them forward. Keep repeating '^lie 
down'' as you thus bring the dog to a 
recumbent position. The chances are 
that when you get him about halfway 
down he will flop over on his side and 
gaze at you with an unusually injured 
and abject expression. Do not mind 
this; straighten him into a reasonably 
prone position and hold him there a min- 
ute, still repeating the command. Then 
release and give the word '^up/' simul- 
taneously rising yourself. Pat and 
praise a bit, then repeat the lesson. Be 
deliberate and avoid all semblance of 
roughness; firmness and patience are 
the twin keys to success here. 

As the dog begins to understand the 
why and wherefore of your actions, grad- 



30 TRAINING THE DOG 

ually use less pressure on Ms loins, 
finally letting go of the fore legs as well. 
But keep one hand ever ready to check 
instantly any symptoms of disobedience, 
and until your pupil heeds the command 
promptly without any manual assist- 
ance, do not fail to kneel yourself when 
enforcing it; this makes for greater will- 
ingness on his part. 

The dog now drops instantly at the 
command and stays down until ordered 
up. The next step is to teach him to 
**stay put" even when you are out of 
sight. To attain this most desirable re- 
sult, proceed as follows: Order '^ie 
down/' then walk slowly away a few 
steps in such a direction that the dog 
can easily see you. Watch him closely, 
and at the least indication of a motion 
to rise stop your retreat at once and 
sharply repeat the order. Keep the dog 
down for a minute or so, then give the 
word '^up/' perhaps changing your tone 
and manner so as to indicate that he 



**COME" AND **LIE DOWN" 31 

has done well. Continue these lessons, 
gradually increasing the time and dis- 
tance between yourself and the dog, 
moving around and behind him, and 
finally leaving the room altogether. 
Any disobedience at any stage of the 
proceedings must be checked by a sharp 
reprimand (not a shout, however), for 
the dog knows perfectly well when he is 
doing wrong. 

One thing more, and we will consider 
that the pup's acquaintance with two of 
his three essential lessons is complete. 
That thing is obedience to a gesture 
signifying *'lie down." This is a sim- 
ple, easily taught and very desirable ac- 
complishment. It is, as a matter of 
fact, borrowed from the curriculum of 
the pointer or setter that is trained for 
field work in conjunction with the gun, 
but that does not make it any less fitted 
to the case of the ** all- 'round" dog. 
The gesture is merely an extending of 
your open hand away from your body, 



32 TEAINING THE DOG 

palm down and fingers togetlier. To 
teacli it, simply let it accompany the 
command ^^lie down'' whenever the lat- 
ter is given. The dog has by this time 
learned to watch your movements in- 
telligently, and you will find that the ges- 
ture alone will soon be promptly heeded. 



IV 

''Heel'' and ''Fetch" 

EVEEY dog tliat is worth having— 
and I say this advisedly — should 
be taught to "heel." This term may 
not be familiar to some, though its 
meaning is really not obscure. It sig- 
nifies merely that when the order '^heeP' 
is given the dog shaJl come close to its 
master's or mistress's heels and remain 
there until given some such releasing 
word as "piz," ''hie on" or ''get 
away," 

The value of such an accomplishment 
on the dog's part is obvious. It is de- 
signed primarily as a handy substitute 
for leash or chain when you are out 
walking and for any reason wish your 
dog to remain close to you for a long 



34 TEAINING THE DOG 

or short period. Everyone who has 
had experience with the average ca- 
nine's proclivity for ** running wild'* 
over front lawns, in and ont of yards 
abutting on the street, etc., kaows what 
complications often arise therefrom. 
Entirely aside from your own conveni- 
ence in the matter, it is no more than 
fair to the dog to keep him under 
proper control when passing along a 
thickly-settled residence street, for ex- 
ample, and, admittedly, other people 
whose rights are infringed upon by the 
inadequately trained dog are entitled 
to some consideration. There is real 
value, also, in **heel" when it comes to 
avoiding wayside fights between your 
dog and the pugnacious individuals of 
his kind which he is sure to meet from 
time to time when out with you. The 
average bully of dogdom will think 
twice before attacking a dog following 
within a few inches of his master's 
heels. And if worse comes to worse, 



**HEEL" AND ^'FETCH'' 35 

yon are close enough to the arena to 
render prompt assistance if need be. 

**Heel" is not a difficult lesson to 
teach, especially when the pnpil's mind 
has been at least rndimentarily trained 
by the commands **come'' and *^lie 
down." As for all lessons, take the dog 
away from anything tending to distract 
him from the work in hand. Snap a 
chain to his collar, and provide yonrself 
with a light switch two or three feet 
long. Take the chain in the left hand, 
holding it behind you and short enough 
so that the dog will be obliged to stay 
within a few inches of your feet. Now, 
with the switch in your right hand, walk 
slowly away, the dog, of course, neces- 
sarily following. Keep repeating the 
word ''heeV in a tone similar to that 
used in other commands. The dog may 
either hang back on the chain or try to 
push forward and past you. In the 
first event, merely tighten your grip on 
the chain and walk on; in the second, 



36 TEAINING THE DOG 

tap him very lightly about the head with 
the switch, thus inducing him to fall 
back to his proper place. If he at- 
tempts to break away to one side or the 
other, check him with the switch and 
chain, chiefly the latter. 

A short session of this sort of thing 
will demonstrate to the average dog 
that the wisest and most comfortable 
thing for him to do is to stay as close to 
your heels as possible. When this point 
is reached, you may begin to slacken 
up on the chain a little, at the same time 
watching closely for any move away 
from position and checking it promptly 
should it occur. The releasing word 
i^^on^' is as good as any) should be 
given only when the lesson is over and 
you unfasten the chain from the dog's 
collar. It . will probably be quickly 
learned and obeyed with alacrity, espe- 
cially if accompanied by a wave of the 
hand and a sort of **all right, old boy — 
it's all over" manner. 



''HEEL'' AND ''FETCH'' 37 

When you think that the dog fully un- 
derstands "heel" in so far as it means 
following close behind you, and when 
he obeys it properly while on the short 
chain, commence to teach him that the 
order signifies also coming to the re- 
quired position from a distance. Ob- 
viously, the way to make this point 
plain to the pupil is to use a longer chain 
or cord, allowing him to move about and 
away from you, then ordering ^'heeV 
and if need be drawing him into posi- 
tion with the cord. Probably one or 
two lessons will be sufficient for this last 
step; if so, dispense with the cord and 
drill the dog thoroughly without it. 

This, then, is the last of the three 
main accomplishments in the elemen- 
tary schooling of the well-mannered 
dog; the other two — "come" and "lie 
down" — ^have been already considered. 
Frequent rehearsal of all three has 
driven their meaning home beyond per- 
adventure of doubt. If you have been 



38 TEAINING THE DOG 

painstaking and thorougli in tlie work, 
perfecting your pupil in each lesson be- 
fore taking up a new one, always insist- 
ent upon strict obedience, but never los- 
ing your temper in striving to secure it, 
and allowing no one else to meddle in 
the teaching, you should now have a 
dog that it is a satisfaction to own. In 
the close companionship which the 
course of teaching has brought about, 
he has learned to look upon you more 
or less as an idol, a superior being at 
once to worship and respect. He has 
learned that your word is law, and his 
brain has been developed along definite 
lines of usefulness. The foundation 
has been laid; the ** three E's,'* in a 
manner of speaking, are an accom- 
plished fact. 

"FETCH" 

The instinct to chase for the purpose 
of capture is present to a greater or 
less extent in every dog. Develop and 



^'HEEL'^ AND **FETCH" 39 

guide it wisely and you have tlie basic 
principle of the accomplishment men- 
tioned above; let it run riot, and in 
many cases your dog will become a nui- 
sance to you and a menace to all the 
chickens, cats and other noisy inhabi- 
tants of the neighborhood. 

Naturally, you cannot teach a dog 
this trick without having some object 
for him to take in his mouth, and for 
this purpose a clean corn cob is about 
the best thing, for it is of convenient 
size and sufficiently soft so that the dog 
will not hesitate to take hold of it; but 
if one is not procurable, a pad of cloth 
may be substituted. Attach a short 
cord to the dog's collar so that he can- 
not escape, and kneeling beside him 
slide your right hand over his upper 
jaw, thumb on one side and four fingers 
on the other. Take the cob in the other 
hand, and slightly pressing the dog's 
upper lip against his teeth with the 
right hand, force him to open his mouth. 



40 TEAINING THE DOG 

As soon as lie does this place the cob 
gently but firmly between his jaws, re- 
leasing the pressure of the right hand 
and with the left closing the lower jaw 
upon the cob and holdiag it closed. As 
the cob slides in and while the dog is 
holding it, give the order ''fetch/' and 
keep repeating it. Watch carefully for 
any move to eject or drop the cob and 
forestall it by the left hand, keeping the 
latter very close to or even touching the 
pupiPs lower jaw. After half a min- 
ute order 'Het go/' and take the cob 
from the dog's mouth, pressing his lip 
against his teeth as before if he is un- 
willing to **open up." Eepeat these 
steps until the dog holds readily with- 
out attempting to throw the cob out, 
and lets go promptly at command even 
when your hands are not close enough 
to influence him. Then repeat them 
some more to be sure he fully under- 
stands. 
The next step is for the pupil to move 



*^HEEL'' AND '* FETCH ^' 41 

about while holding the cob. When the 
latter is in his mouth, take hold of the 
cord, and rising, back away a foot or 
two, drawing on the cord and repeating 
^^ fetch." Probably the dog will come 
readily enough, but he may drop the 
cob. Guard against this by keeping one 
hand near his jaws. Gradually in- 
crease the distance until the dog fol- 
lows unhesitatingly, carrying the cob. 

So far, so good. We must now teach 
the pupil to take hold of the object he 
is to fetch, instead of your placing it 
in his mouth. Hold the cob very close 
to and directly in front of his nose, and 
order ^^ fetch," Very likely he will at 
once open his mouth and reach for the 
cob ; if not, slide your right hand over his 
upper jaw as a gentle reminder, and 
roll the cob in as his mouth opens. Be 
very patient at this stage, for a little 
roughness may imdo much that has al- 
ready been accomplished. If the dog 
takes hold, pat and praise him ; then re- 



42 TEAINING THE DOG 

peat, holding tlie cob a little farther 
away. Keep increasing the distance 
until the dog must take a few steps to 
reach the cob; when he does this nnder- 
standingly, move off as before, making 
him follow by drawing on the cord while 
yon repeat the order. And do not for- 
get to use the command '^let go'' when 
each repetition of the process is com- 
pleted. 

The final step, of course, is to remove 
the collar cord, place the cob on the 
ground a few feet away, and at the or- 
der ^^ fetch'' have your pupil go to it, 
pick it up, and bring it to you. If the 
various steps described have been con- 
scientiously followed, this final test 
should be easy enough. 

In conclusion, I want to say a few 
words against the common practice of 
throwing a ball or some such object for 
the dog to chase, before he has been se- 
riously taught to fetch. Where this 
sort of thing is frequently done the 



*'HEEL'' AND **FETCH" 43 

puppy is very apt to conceive the idea 
that the whole process is a delightful 
game in which he as principal player is 
entitled to do just as he pleases with the 
object thrown; if he brings it back to 
you it is merely because he wants the 
pleasure of chasing it again, and not 
from any idea of obedience to any word 
you may be uttering. Bear in mind 
that to have any reliable quality of 
obedience, fetching must first of all be 
an acknowledgment by the dog of your 
authority over him. 



Teaching Tricks 

GRANTED an apt and willing pupil 
and a teacher whose heart is 
really in the work, the possibilities of 
teaching the dog to perform various 
tricks are almost unlimited. A certain 
amount of ingenuity on the part of 
the teacher, coupled with alertness in 
watching for and taking advantage of 
any peculiarities or mannerisms of the 
dog and developing them into regular 
accomplishments, will in very many 
cases lead to tricks which, in their 
originality and apparent evidence of 
logical reasoning, are far more effec- 
tive than the ordinary run of things 
which the average dog is taught. Not 
that the familiar, time-worn tricks 

44 



TEACHING TEICKS 45 

should be neglected; on the contrary, 
many of them are really desirable. 
But it is the new ones, the unique ac- 
complishments, that open up the larg- 
est field to the ambitious trainer. 

It is not my purpose here — ^nor, in- 
deed, is it possible in any book of this 
size^ — to cover all the possibilities in 
what may be justly considered a sub- 
ject separate and apart from the dog's 
strictly utilitarian education. But a 
fair selection of tricks will be described 
in their natural sequence, and sugges- 
tions made for a number of others ; with 
these as a foundation, the rest is really 
dependent on teacher and pupil alone. 

In the great majority of cases, it is- 
unwise to attempt teaching your dog 
any of the so-called tricks until he 
has thoroughly mastered the lessons 
*^come," ^*lie down" and '^heel." Ex- 
ceptions, of course, arise; for example, 
if a marked inclination to bring various 
objects to you is shown, it may be en- 



46 TRAINING THE DOG 

couraged at once and developed until 
it becomes the commonly seen accom- 
plishment * 'fetch." This, by the way, 
is an example of what I said above 
relative to taking advantage of your 
pnpiPs peculiarities. As a general 
thing, however, don't worry yourself 
and the dog by attempting anything of 
an ** extra curriculum" nature, until the 
three essentials mentioned have been 
driven firmly home. 

''BIT UP" 

In taking up the actual teaching of 
tricks, it is as well to commence with 
that good old stand-by '*sit up" or 
*'beg." Take the dog to a corner of 
the room — a corner where two walls 
form a right angle — and placing him 
therein, kneel or sit on the floor before 
him. Now take one of the dog's front 
legs in each hand, holding them near his 
shoulders so as to avoid all possibility 
of his twisting away from you, and back 



TEACHING TEICKS 47 

him into the corner, at the same time 
raising his front feet well off the floor. 
In a moment you will see the first ad- 
vantage of the right angle formed by 
the room wallsi. As you press your 
pupil backward he will naturally at- 
tempt to keep on his hind feet, prob- 
ably stepping back in the effort to pre- 
serve his balance; but the wall soon ef- 
fectually checks further retreat and 
makes it possible for you to raise the 
dog's body into the desired vertical 
position by continuing the backward 
and upward pressure. 

The dog is now standing on his hind 
legs literally *^with his back to the 
wall," probably trying to step still fur- 
ther away from you, but making no 
headway in the attempt. Hold him thus 
a moment, and if he does not settle 
down into a crouching posture with his 
hind legs under him in a natural posi- 
tion, shift both his front legs to one 
hand and with the other draw the re- 



48 TEAINING THE DOG 

calcitrant Mnd feet into the required 
position. It is essential that yoii insist 
on this matter of the proper placing of 
the legs ; little or no success will be at- 
tained teaching a dog to sit up unless 
he feels that his hind feet are in such a 
position that they will support his body 
in a state of balance. While placing the 
feet as described, exert a gradual down- 
ward pressure with the upper hand — 
you will see at once how to bring about 
the desired result — and having thus 
brought the dog into a more or less close 
approximation of the correct *'sit up" 
position, keep repeating the appropriate 
order while you hold him there. 

Perhaps at about this stage of the 
proceedings your pupil will be seized 
with a sudden weakness of the spine, 
and **cave in" most dejectedly. In 
this event the second advantage of the 
corner position becomes apparent: it is 
manifestly impossible for the dog to 
*'cave" in more than one direction (for- 



TEACHING TEICKS 49 

ward), and tHs tendency yon can 
readily check. 

The proper position for the front feet 
of a dog that is *^ begging" is forward 
and up at an angle of perhaps forty-five 
degrees. As soon as the pupil reaches 
that stage of the trick in which he 
readily *' squats'' straight-backed in the 
corner, with hind legs solidly under him, 
gradually release your hold on his fore 
shoulders and raise his front paws to 
the position mentioned, keeping one 
hand under them to be sure they are 
not lowered. 

When your judgment tells you that 
the dog has a pretty clear idea of what 
*'sit up'' means, try and induce him to 
do it without your helping him up. Do 
this in the corner, for he has learned 
the supporting value of the two walls 
and they give him confidence. Very 
often you will find it helpful at this point 
to motion him up with the hand, hold- 
ing it above him and snapping your 



50 TRAINING THE DOG 

fingers to attract Ms attention upward 
while you give the command. It is well, 
too, to stand up yourself now, of course 
bending over enough so as to be close 
to the dog and yet above him. 

It is impossible to set any fixed period 
at the end of which you can dispense 
with the comer of the room and perfect 
the trick without the aid of artificial 
support. Some dogs wiU catch the idea 
of the lesson in two or three trials, 
while others may need a week. The 
only sure guide in the matter is to study 
the particular case in hand and follow 
your own judgment. When the step is 
finally taken, do not expect too much 
of the dog at first. Steady him with 
both hands when he has his first experi- 
ence in sitting up without the wall sup- 
port, for in nine cases out of ten he will 
have difficulty in keeping his balance 
unaided. 

Do not prolong these lessons unduly. 
Eemember that sitting up is an un- 



TEACHING TEICKS 51 

natural posture for any dog, and is tir- 
ing especially to a half-grown puppy. 
Let your pupil rest frequently, and the 
mutual results will be better. 

"JUMP'* 

This is another well-known trick, de- 
cidedly worth while. Take a cane or 
some similar stick, and kneeling, lay it 
flat on the floor before the dog. Tell 
him to ''jump,/' at the same time snap- 
ping your fingers or using some such 
means to induce him to step over the 
stick. If he tries to go aroimd the end 
of it, change your position so that a 
wall of the room will make such an eva- 
sion impossible. When the dog crosses 
the cane, make him reverse the maneu- 
ver, and repeat the lesson (without rais- 
ing the stick) until the pupil shows no 
hesitation in obeying. 

The next step is to raise the cane an 
inch or two, repeating **jump" and 
gradually increasing the height until the 



52 TEAINING THE DOG 

dog must actually jump to clear it. 
Watch carefully lest lie now try to go 
under the cane, and do not at any time 
require him to perform the trick unless 
the footing is secure enough to prevent 
a slip and possible fall when landing 
after the jump. Never make a dog 
jump on a smooth, bare floor where he 
may be injured or at least frightened by 
slipping. 

When the dog clears the stick readily 
at all reasonable heights, it is an easy 
matter to teach him to jump through 
your bowed arms, over your extended 
foot, etc. 

"BRAKE HANDS'* 

Many dogs learn this virtually by 
themselves; they get into the habit of 
pawing at you to attract your attention, 
and readily learn to extend a front foot 
at command. For those which do not 
pick up the idea by themselves, however, 



TEACHING TEICKS 53 

the following method of teaching the 
trick is recommended. 

Kneel on the floor or sit in a low 
chair, and have the dog close in front 
of you ; if he sits down, so much the bet- 
ter. Hold out one hand, open and palm 
up, and order ''Shake hands,'' If your 
pupil makes no effort to comply, tap the 
toes of his right front foot sharply with 
your knuckles. This will cause him to 
raise that foot at once. The instant he 
does so, take it firmly but not roughly 
in your hand, drawing it toward you to 
the desire position, and holding it there 
a few moments while you repeat the or- 
der. Then release the paw and try 
again. 

As a usual thing, two or three lessons 
of moderate duration will suffice to ^ 
this trick quite firmly in the dog's mind, 
and only practice will be needed to per- 
fect it. A variation not often seen is 
to have the dog, when he has *' shaken 



54 TEAINING THE DOG 

hands'' with one paw, repeat the polite- 
ness with the other, in response to some 
such phrase as **Now the other one.'' 
This is very easily taught by following 
the methods used in teaching the trick 
in its original form. 

"8PEAK" 

I hesitate somewhat to include this 
trick in the list of a well-mannered ca- 
nine's accomplishments, for the reason 
that most dogs are prone to be quite 
noisy enough without any encourage- 
ment from their masters. But as there 
are many households where a few barks 
more or less make no material differ- 
ence, I will give an easy method of teach- 
ing to ** speak," and you may include or 
omit the stunt as your individual prefer- 
ence suggests. 

The majority of real, healthy doga 
seem to have an almost instinctive tend- 
ency to become interested if not ac- 
tually excited when they hear the drawn- 



TEACHING TEICKS 55 

out, sibilant sound of S-s-S'S-s, Why 
this is I'm sure I do not know, unless it 
be that the many generations of con- 
scienceless men and boys who have em- 
ployed the delightfully exciting expres- 
sion *^S-s-sic 'em," to encourage the 
pursuit of sundry cats, rats and tramps, 
have left their impress on dogdom in 
toto. At any rate, make use of this psy- 
chological fact in teaching your dog to 
*' speak," by prolonging the S-s-s and 
generally acting so as to excite the dog 
a bit, while still holding his attention. 
If this does not elicit a response, essay 
to bark a little yourself, immediately 
thereafter uttering the word ^^Sp,eak/' 
Do not bark too ferociously or too nat- 
urally, else the pupil, if somewhat small 
and timid, may run away and hide un- 
der the bed in the spare room on the 
third floor. Make your bark short and 
sharp, and as barking is contagious, the 
dog will be quite sure to follow suit ere 
long. 



56 TRAINING THE DOG 

And now just a few words in regard 
to rewards for proficiency in perform- 
ing tricks. About 499 people out of 500 
seem to think that a lump of sugar or 
some such stuff is absolutely necessary 
to induce Terry or Waldemar to go 
through his paces. It's not. A trick, 
no matter how absurd it may be, should 
be considered by the dog as just as much 
a matter of obedience pure and simple 
as anything else you tell him to do. In 
some cases (I hesitate to say this for 
fear the excuse may be too often used) 
a tid-bit may be offered to cure a bad 
case of the sulks, but for a general work- 
ing rule limit your reward to a pat and 
a few words of praise. Thus will your 
dog be dependable when required to 
*^show off,'' and you will not have to 
keep on hand a box of fancy crackers 
or a pound of chocolate creams for his 
especial benefit. 



Advanced Lessons 

WHEN your dog has thoroughly 
mastered the lessons described 
in the preceding chapters, he may be 
considered to have far better than 
an average canine education. He has 
learned enough to be an excellent and 
dependable companion, and a reason- 
ably good trick performer. You can 
rest on your laurels, in a manner of 
speaking, and not be disturbed by find- 
ing that some of them are thorns; or 
you can enter the dog in a ** post-grad- 
uate *' course, and develop him still fur- 
ther. We have all seen dogs that ap- 
parently show remarkable intelligence 
and reasoning powers in the perform- 
ance of some feat, but — ^without in any 
way insinuating that a dog is incapable 

57 



58 TEAINING THE DOG 

of actual reasoning — ^the accomplisli- 
ment is really the result of careful and 
thorough training. Much of this ad- 
vanced work must depend on the in- 
dividual trainer, for the possibilities for 
new tricks and useful accomplishments 
differ somewhat in every case. But I 
have endeavored to set down in the fol- 
lowing pages some suggestions which 
will be of value, not only in the feats 
specifically described, but also in indi- 
cating lines along which you, with your 
particular dog, may expand and de- 
velop as opportunity presents itself. 

If you are fortunate in owning a 
really bright animal, there is almost no 
limit to the number of his possible ac- 
complishments, useful as well as amus- 
ing. For example, a dog that has been 
properly taught to ^'lie down'' readily 
learns to guard various things dur- 
ing his master's temporary absence. 
Again, many different breeds can be 
taught to herd sheep or cattle success- 



ADVANCED LESSONS 59 

fully. But it is in the matter of tricks 
that the average owner will find the 
greatest opportunity for advanced work, 
and in this chapter are given some 
which have not been previously con- 
sidered because they presuppose a good 
** grammar schooP' foundation already 
laid. 

"STAND UP" 

This trick, in which the dog stands 
erect upon his hind feet, should not be 
attempted until he has attained his full 
strength, for it calls for considerable 
muscular exertion. 

The first step is to take the pupil's 
front paws in your hands and raise him 
to the desired position, while you reit- 
erate the order. At first it will be nec- 
essary to steady the dog carefully so 
that he will not lose his balance, but as 
he gains confidence and a knowledge of 
what is wanted he will learn to keep his 
own equilibrium. 



60 TEAINING THE DOG 

As the lessons progress, gradually 
cease taking hold of the front paws as 
described, and endeavor to coax the dog 
to assume the erect posture unaided. 
Hold your hand over his head, snapping 
the fingers to attract his attention to it, 
and urging him to rise. Occasionally, 
encouragement may be given by a 
morsel of food held in the fingers above 
the dog, but remember that this is to 
be done only during the early lessons, to 
urge the dog to attempt a feat for which 
he lacks confidence. When the trick is 
learned, it must be performed from a 
sense of obedience. 

"WALTZ'* 

This is a development of ''stand up," 
and while the performer cannot be ex- 
pected to follow literally the steps of a 
waltz, yet he should circle about on his 
hind legs in a manner very suggestive 
of the real thing. 

Bring the dog to ''stand up," then 



ADVANCED LESSONS 61 

circle about Mm while you repeat 
''Waltz/' Probably he will at first 
drop on all fours and follow you. If 
so, stop at once, make Mm ** stand up," 
and keep closer to him as you circle; 
hold one hand above him, snapping the 
fingers as before. As soon as the dog 
takes even only one or two steps in the 
desired way, praise him lavishly. Then 
try again and again until he fully un- 
derstands. 

This ** waltz" trick may be varied in 
many ways, both as to the actions of the 
dog and in the words used in the order. 
I know one terrier which, in response to 
his master's **Show us how Maud Allan 
dances, Jack," gyrates about in a man- 
ner very suggestive of that famous 
danseuse's actions on the stage. In this 
case, the words used in teaching the 
trick were **Maud Allan," and the rest 
was added later merely for effect. 
Jack, of course, does not know the mean- 
ing of the whole sentence, but he has 



62 TEAINING THE DOG 

learned to listen closely to his master's 
voice, and takes his cue from the words 
^^Mand Allan.'' 

Very amusing and astonishing results 
can be obtained by this method of ** pad- 
ding" the words a dog knows with 
phrases which, though actually meaning 
nothing to him, make it seem to the un- 
initiated onlooker that he is gifted with 
a marvelous knowledge of the English 
language. Eemember the principle: 
Two or three words only are the dog's 
cue. At first they should be somewhat 
emphasized, and care must be taken not 
to add too much else at a time. Speak 
clearly and distinctly, and take pains to 
hold the dog's attention closely. 

With the majority of dogs there is 
some particular note of music which, if 
repeated many times, so '*gets on their 
nerves" that they will break forth into 




Kte?:!MS?^.ei]££fe:i2S^I 



"Half a dog high, a dog and a half long, and 
three dogs in the matter of brains" 






The rough-and-ready Scotch terrier is ideal 
for the country place 



ADVANCED LESSONS 63 

soulful if not always melodious yowling. 
This note varies with, individual dogs, 
but it can usually be ascertained by shut- 
ting the dog in a room where there is a 
piano and repeatedly striking the dif- 
ferent keys (with the loud pedal on) un- 
til the psychological one is discovered. 
Then keep the ** singer" at work by oc- 
casionally striking the note, while you 
repeat the chosen order until he under- 
stands it. 

If the piano elicits no response, try a 
violin, comet, or whatever instrument 
may be your favorite. This in turn 
failing, fall back on your own voice, 
yowling as much like a dog as may be, 
and interlarding the performance with 
exhortations to the dog to *^sing" also. 
It is just as well not to essay this pro- 
cedure in the vicinity of neighbors or 
the police, else you may be misunder- 
stood and lodged in jail or an institu- 
tion for the feeble-minded. 



64 tTEAINING THE DOG 

"LAWYER" 

Kneel beside the dog, and make Mm 
lie down on Ms side. Then take Ms feet 
and roll him over so that he lies on the 
other side; let him lie there a moment, 
then roll him back again. Eepeat this 
ad infinitum, while yon order ^'Lawyer 
do." 

When the dog lies down, rolls over 
and back again by himself, begin to add 
words to the command, as suggested un- 
der ** Waltz," until you have some such 
sentence as, ^* Listen, boy; what does a 
lawyer doT' Visitors seeing the trick 
for the first time are sure to ask what 
the connection is between the dog's ac- 
tions and a lawyer's, whereupon you 
naively reply: *' 'What does a lawyer 
doT Why, he lies first on one side and 
then on the other." 

"SHUT THE DOOR" 

This is another trick that is quite ef- 
fective in its impression on strangers, as 



ADVANCED LESSONS 65 

well as useful under ordinary circum- 
stances. The dog which has been taught 
to *' stand up" and *^ waltz" should 
learn it readily, for all he has to do is 
to rise on his hind legs, place his front 
paws against the open door, and walk 
forward as his weight closes it. 

To teach the trick, hold the door with 
one hand to prevent its closing too 
rapidly, and with the other get the dog 
into the desired position by tapping the 
door at the place where he is to put his 
front paws. Then let the door close 
slowly, while the dog follows on his hind 
legs. 



VII 

The All- 'round Dog 

THE aU- 'round dog — the general- 
purpose fellow who is, after all, 
about the best canine companion a red- 
blooded man, woman or child can have 
— ^is not a product of large cities. His 
place is in the country, where there are 
vermin to be destroyed, walks and 
tramps afield to be taken, streams and 
ponds to be swum in, and room to 
breathe and run and play as a dog 
should. Give any normal pup of active 
nature these blessings, and he will be 
in a fair way to becoming an all- 'round 
dog. Encourage and guide him among 
them, and his development is assured. 

Let us first consider accustoming the 
dog to taking to the water. Of course, 

66 



THE ALL- 'BOUND DOG 67 

he is, unlike hmnan beings, endowed 
with an instinctive knowledge of how to 
swim, but if inexperienced he is prob- 
ably afraid of deep water. To over- 
come this fear, never throw him bodily 
into the pond, under the mistaken notion 
that such is the best way to accustom a 
dog to water; think what the result 
would be on yourseK were you in the 
dog's place. 

Let the dog become accustomed to 
swimming gradually. Go on a warm 
day to where the bank shelves off grad- 
ually, wade into the shallow water a 
little way, and encourage the dog to fol- 
low. Never lose patience and drag him 
in. Arouse his interest and enthusiasm 
by a sort of *'come-on-in-the-water's- 
fine" attitude; throw in sticks and peb- 
bles for him to chase. A few days of 
this will overcome any fear he may have 
had, provided no abrupt change is made 
from a wading to a swimming depth. 

Do not at first give the dog the im- 



68 TRAINING THE DOG 

pression that entering the water is some- 
thing he must do as a matter of duty; 
endeavor to show him that it is all for 
fun, and he will soon learn to enjoy 
swimming for the sake of its novelty 
and the relief it affords him in hot 
weather. 

Let ns turn now to the destruction of 
rats, mice and such vermin, a thing 
which is instinctive in nearly all dogs, 
especially the various breeds of terrier. 
There is nothing particular which can 
be done to develop such a propensity, ex- 
cept a general policy of encouragement 
and frequent opportunities, but it 
should be borne in mind that some in- 
dividuals do not show any aptitude as 
vermin destroyers until they are two or 
three years old; then it all comes to 
them suddenly. 

It is well to start the rodent-hunting 
career of a young dog with very small 
game. If in his inexperience he tackles 
a battle-scarred old warrior rat, the 



THE ALL- 'BOUND DOG 69 

chances are that the results will dis- 
courage him from similar efforts for 
some time to come, for be it known that 
a rat can fight like **all possessed/' 

For the sake of the appearance of the 
lawn, it is not well to encourage your 
dog to promiscuous digging for ground 
moles, but if he shows any propensity 
for hunting these pests you may be able 
to teach him to catch them with neat- 
ness and dispatch. Moles are active 
usually in mid-morning and again in the 
afternoon, and if at such times you ap- 
proach a fresh burrow quietly, without 
jarring the ground with your footfalls, 
you will probably see the stirring of the 
turf which indicates where the tunnel 
is being extended. Have in your hand 
a short spade or some similar imple- 
ment, and let the dog follow at heel. 
Directly below where the surface of the 
soil is stirring is the mole, busily dig- 
ging and unconscious of your stealthy 
approach. You can get within a couple 



70 TRAINING THE DOG 

of feet without disturbing him; then 
crush down the tunnel roof immediately 
behind him with your foot to prevent 
a retreat, simultaneously driving in the 
spade and unearthing the mole. Once 
on the surface, he will be an easy prey 
for the dog. 

Now, the point of the foregoing is 
this: If your dog is keen and observ- 
ant, he will realize that the thing to do 
is to hunt for the place where the mole 
is actually working, approach carefully, 
and then dig right in in a hurry. 
Kiiowing these things, he may learn to 
do them alone and unaided. I have 
known several dogs that were most suc- 
cessful at this style of hunting, and 
their actions while stalking some un- 
susi>ecting ** mound-builder'' were most 
conclusive proof of the adaptability of 
the canine mind. One of these dogs 
worked it out to such a fine point that 
he disturbed the turf but little in un- 
earthing a mole. He would creep to 



THE ALL- 'BOUND DOG 71 

within striking distance, poise himself 
for an upward spring, and come down 
with fore feet and mnzzle so unerringly 
on top of the ** varmint" that the latter 
was usually disabled by the first shock. 



vni 

The Choice of a Breed 

SELECTING a dog for someone you 
do not know is like buying a hat, 
a cane or a suit of clothes for a person 
with whose age, physical make-up and 
personal idiosyncrasies you are un- 
familiar: the fit may not be good. To 
carry the simile farther, there are al- 
most as many sizes and complexions of 
dogs as of clothes, hats or canes, and as 
everyone admits that de gustihus non 
disputandum est, I will not attempt in 
this chapter to do more thaa indicate 
some of the chief characteristics of a 
number of the breeds which have proven 
satisfactory for the average person who 
wants a real dog — a dog which shall be 

72 



THE CHOICE OF A BEEED 73 

a good and able-bodied companion, 
especially about the suburban or coun- 
try home. 

THE AIREDALE 

Half a century or more ago there was 
evolved in Yorkshire a type of dog 
that filled a long-felt want in the hearts 
of the sport-loving Britons of that Mid- 
land county. They needed a brainy 
animal that should be big and dead 
game, hardy and absolutely without 
fear of water or cold, a good watch-dog 
and a keen general-purpose hunter, for 
the valley of the Aire is a region of hills 
and rushing streams, the natural abode 
of foxes, otters, badgers and other 
lesser vermin galore. It was hard to 
find a breed that could satisfactorily 
meet all those requirements, so the 
Yorkshiremen determined to invent one, 
and the successful result of their ex- 
periments has, with some slight modi- 
fications of conformation, come down to 



74 TEAINING THE DOG 

us as the Airedale of the present day — 
the largest terrier. 

The Airedale's ancestry is, and prob- 
ably always will be, more or less a mat- 
ter of conjecture. But the chances are 
that he was originally a cross between a 
grizzle-and-tan terrier that used to be 
common in Yorkshire, and the otter- 
hound, the latter being a powerful dog 
somewhat of the bloodhound type, but 
wire-coated and almost as much at home 
in the water as out of it. Probably 
there were also traces of breeds such as 
the bull terrier, collie, Bedlington, fox 
terrier and perhaps others. 

But however uncertain may be his 
early lineage, there is absolutely no 
doubt that the Airedale of to-day is a 
grand dog, strong, courageous, intelli- 
gent and with a disposition that for gen- 
eral attractiveness is surpassed by those 
of few other breeds. He will hunt any- 
thing from a mouse to a grizzly bear ; he 
will herd sheep or do parlor tricks for 



THE CHOICE OF A BEEED 75 

the entertainment of visitors. He is 
obedient and cheerful, and takes to the 
water like a muskrat. He will be a safe 
and gentle playmate for the children, or 
a terror to tramps and night prowlers 
in general. He makes an ideal compan- 
ion and friend, for he has the tme ter- 
rier's spirit of '*get np and go,'' com- 
bined with a certain dignity and depend- 
ability that are all his own. A good 
Airedale doesn't look for trouble, bnt 
woe be imto any dog that tries to impose 
upon him, for he knows not the meaning 
of the word ''quit." He is of the prac- 
tical all-around type and ''will do any- 
thing that any other dog can do and then 
lick the other dog." 

There is no record of the Airedale ever 
having been called beautiful in an es- 
thetic sense. But there is about him an 
appearance of compactness and sym- 
metry, of straight-limbed and capable 
strength, that cannot but excite admira- 
tion. To see him in action with all the 



76 TRAINING THE DOG 

grace of his tense muscles in perfect 
play and watcli tlie pound of well-placed 
pads is to realize that he's a real dog. 
To know him well is to like him, for no 
dog could have built up such a reputa- 
tion as the Airedale now enjoys unless 
his general qualities were of the highest 
order. 

The breed as now accepted by the ken- 
nel associations is somewhat heavier 
than in the days when it was unknown 
outside of the Midlands. A good speci- 
men should weigh in the neighborhood of 
forty-five pounds and be about as tall as 
an ordinary Llewellyn setter. The body 
is short, with well-arched ribs and deep 
but narrow chest, giving plenty of room 
for the lungs. The shoulders are sloping 
and their every line is indicative of sup- 
ple power; fore legs perfectly straight 
and the feet compact and well padded. 
The hind legs should be strongly mus- 
cledj but by no means * * bunchy. ' ' Skull 



THE CHOICE OF A BEEED 77 

wide, but rather flat, with small, dark 
eyes and little V-shaped ears set rather 
high. The muzzle is long, strong and 
firm and the teeth large. 

The Airedale is a wire-coated dog, 
with hard, stiff hair that is about an inch 
long, except on the head, where it is 
shorter than elsewhere. Beneath this 
outer protecting coat there is a warm 
underbody of soft, thick wool. His color 
is a uniform deep tan all over, with the 
exception of a patch of black or dark 
gray across the back like a saddle. The 
double coat was a strong asset to the 
Airedale in the sort of life for which his 
originators intended him, for it is a great 
protection against water, cold, briars 
and teeth. He will jump into creek or 
pond, swim across, take a couple of 
shakes and a roll in the grass when he 
comes out, and be dry again. Similarly, 
he will come through a long tramp or 
hunt in the woods and tangled thickets 



78 TRAINING THE BOG 

without a scratcli from thorn or branch, 
and be ready to start right out and do 
the same thing over again. 

In spite of his large size, the Airedale 
is a true terrier and readily adapts him- 
self to any climate and any task. He 
has hauled sledges in Alaska, and hunted 
mountain lions in the Rockies and crim- 
inals in Europe. He will tackle a wild- 
cat in a Florida savanna just as eagerly 
as he will snap a mouse or rat in the 
feed room of your stable. He has the 
constitution of a piece of armor-plate 
and the heart of a gentleman. The 
place for him is in the country, for first, 
last and always, the typical Airedale is 
''alldog.'^ 

THE IRISH TERRIER 

In many respects not unlike the Aire- 
dale, the Irish terrier has the same 
rough, wiry coat, much of the hardihood, 
and almost if not quite the intelligence 
of his larger cousin. In disposition, 






The Airedale is a good all-'round dog with no 
limitations 




A good cocker spaniel is compact in build 
and very intelligent 



THE CHOICE OF A BEEED 79 

however, lie is more of a true terrier, 
and usually lacks the dignified, self- 
contained poise of the Airedale. He 
is more excitable, more quick and 
** snappy" in his actions, more inclined 
to bristle up to other dogs on the look- 
out for trouble. But for all that he is a 
highly desirable dog, especially for those 
who do not care for the large size of the 
Airedale. 

A good Irish terrier, in addition to 
being about two-thirds the size, is some- 
what more lightly built than an Airedale. 
His coat is of proportionally the same 
length, tan in color, without any gray 
saddle or other markings of different 
color. The jaws are strong though not 
heavy, and were his hair to be cut short 
he would show general lines quit© like 
those of the fox terrier. 

TEE DACHSHUND 

Half a dog high, a dog and a half long, 
and three dogs in the matter of brains— 



80 TEAINING THE DOG 

that is the dachshund. From the tip of 
his rat tail to the point of his long, 
strong muzzle he is a most likable little 
fellow, and the seeker after a small, 
smooth-coated dog that will be thor- 
oughly companionable and able to 
** stand the racket'' may seek a long time 
before he will discover a breed that will 
better meet all his requirements. 

On the part of perhaps a large ma- 
jority of the people of this country there 
is a seemingly irresistible impulse to con- 
sider the dachshund as a sort of freak — 
a grotesque caricature of a dog whose 
chief use in life is to serve as the butt of 
time-honored and worn-out jokes con- 
cerning his resemblance to sausages, 
stovepipes and various other inanimate 
objects which are endowed with the 
maximum of length combined with the 
minimum of height. True, the small 
chap of the satiny coat and the bowed 
legs is not designed on the graceful lines 
of a greyhound, for example, but that in 



THE CHOICE OF A BREED 81 

no wise affects the sterling qualities 
wliicli are Ms and which have endeared 
him to all who are fortunate enough to 
have come to know him well. Indeed, I 
am not sure but that this same curious 
conformation, this apparent lack of har- 
mony between the dachshund's compo- 
nent parts, constitutes one of his strong 
assets ; for it makes all the more attrac- 
tive — 'and often amusing — ^his bright, 
**all dog" ways. 

But setting aside the general appear- 
ance of the breed, which should be, after 
all, a comparatively unimportant factor 
in the choice of a dog, let us consider a 
typical specimen more in detail. Exam- 
ine him closely as he stands before you, 
firmly planted on those short, heavily 
muscled legs and powerful feet which 
serve him so well in his natural work, 
that of "going to earth" after vermin 
of various sorts. Did you ever see a 
finer head on any dog? Notice the abun- 
danee of brain space in the well-domed 



82 TEAINING THE DOG 

skull; see how strong and clean-cut the 
jaws are, how well the long, silky ears 
are set on. Speak qnietly to him and he 
will turn to you a pair of large, dark 
hazel eyes full of intelligence and gentle- 
manly inquiry, talking as plainly as if 
their owner could speak and were asking 
what you required of him. Then, as he 
half turns away and takes a step or two, 
look at the wonderful depth of chest, the 
column-like neck and the smooth, grace- 
ful curves of the back and tail. Surely 
here is a dog to tie to, and one whose 
possession will yield the keenest satis- 
faction. 

You can teach a dachshund anything 
that a dog of his size can reasonably be 
expected to do and some things that 
those who are unfamiliar with the breed 
would consider quite impossible. For 
example, one would scarcely expect one 
of these short-legged fellows to develop 
into a first class coach dog, and yet I 
know of one which, without apparent fa- 



THE CHOICE OF A BREED 83 

tigue, will follow Ms master's carriage 
for miles, running between the front 
wheels at the horse's very heels in the 
most approved coach dog style and thor- 
oughly enjoying the experience. The 
person who desires a trick dog will find 
in the dachshund a very apt pupil, for 
besides being naturally bright the ma- 
jority of them are very tractable and 
willing to learn. 

Another quality which makes these 
dogs especially well suited to the coun- 
try place is their ability as vermin 
destroyers. This has already been 
alluded to, but it will bear amplification. 
If there are rats or mice about your 
place — and few homes are entirely free 
from these pests — a dachshund will 
make their lives exceedingly hazardous 
and exciting, to put it mildly. One 
finely bred dog which came under my 
notice would crouch sometimes for 
fifteen or twenty minutes at a time be- 
side a mouse or rat hole, perfectly mo- 



84 TEAINING THE DOG 

tionless save for a slight quivering of 
his muscles. When the rodent tenta- 
tively thrust his nose out from his re- 
treat the dog, instead of making a futile 
dash and digging madly at the hole into 
which his intended victim had of course 
disappeared again at the first hostile 
motion, would hold his position until the 
mouse was well away from its refuge; 
then a sudden bound with nose and fore 
paws together generally resulted in an- 
other death in the rodent family. 

And finally, let us consider the dachs- 
hund from the standpoint of the man, 
woman or child who wants a bright, 
cheerful companion and playfellow 
about the house or grounds or on walks 
or drives. Here, if anywhere, the breed 
can be strongly recommended, though, 
of course, there are individual excep- 
tions the same as with any other kind of 
dog. It makes no difference whether 
you want a romp in the evening or 



THE CHOICE OF A BEEED 85 

prefer merely to sit before the open 
wood fire ; you may go for a long tramp 
or simply visit the flower garden to see 
how it is progressing; the weather may 
be hot or cold, wet or dry ; whatever may 
be the requirements of the moment, your 
dachshund will be always there and al- 
ways ready. 

A few points to be looked for in a 
well-bred dachshund may be of some 
value to the intending purchaser who is 
unfamiliar with the breed. Avoid the 
dog which shows any tendency toward 
coarseness of appearance, such as 
heavy, short ears, badly curved tail, 
thick hair without gloss, etc. As re- 
gards size, there is considerable latitude 
of choice, from the light-weight dog of 
sixteen pounds to the heavy-weight of 
perhaps twenty-five. The color may be 
red or yellowish red in the single- 
colored specimens, and brown, deep 
black or gray, each with tan spots over 
eyes, on sides of jaws and lower lips, 



86 TEAINING THE DOG 

breast, insides of legs and under tail, in 
the two-colored. 

TEE SCOTCH TERRIER 

This is another of the rough-coated 
terriers, but, nnlike the two varieties 
already mentioned, his conformation is 
perhaps more suggestive of a dachshund 
than a true terrier. His legs are short 
and very strong, body heavy, ears 
^^ pricked,'' and tail long. In color he 
is a dark iron gray — almost black — and 
the general impression he makes is that 
of an extremely intelligent, powerful, 
capable dog that can stand unlimited 
hard work under all conditions and come 
out with tail wagging and ready for 
more. 

Indeed, the Scotchman is about as 
good a dog as any reasonable person 
could ask. True, he has not the 
statuesque grandeur of a Great Dane, 
nor the beautiful coat and grace of a 
collie ; but he has points of recommenda- 



THE CHOICE OF A BEEED 87 

tion in which these breeds are lacking. 
True to his appearance, a Scotch terrier 
is the embodiment of hardiness, intelli- 
gence and reliability. He readily adapts 
himself to learning tricks, makes an 
ideal companion, and is strong and cou- 
rageous enough to make a very adequate 
guardian and watchdog. His one draw- 
back is that in this country he is com- 
paratively rare, and it is often difficult 
to obtain a good specimen without pay- 
ing a rather stiff price. It is to be 
hoped, however, that the increasing 
popularity of rough-and-ready dogs will 
result in the breed becoming more com- 
mon, for the Scotch terrier deserves to 
be better and more widely known. 

TEE COCKER SPANIEL 

Although originally a hunting dog — 
indeed, his name is derived from his 
usefulness in woodcock shooting — the 
cocker spaniel of to-day is esteemed 
rather for his bright, attractive ways 



88 TEAINING THE DOG 

and general desirable qualities than for 
Ms adaptability to field , sports. His 
popularity is well deserved, for in addi- 
tion to being an excellent all-around dog, 
Ms silky, glossy coat is equaled in 
beauty by that of scarcely any other 
breed of dog. 

Generally speaking, the cocker is more 
docile and quiet than any of the breeds 
previously considered, although he is by 
no means deficient in courage. Not be- 
ing a terrier, he is not a natural-born 
ratter, though even to this there are 
many individual exceptions. He is in- 
telligent and learns readily, and his 
tractability renders him an excellent dog 
for an inexperienced trainer. 

Some of the points to be looked for 
in a good specimen are: Head, well de- 
veloped and broad, clean cut in outline, 
with large, full but not '*pop" eyes, and 
low-set ears with long, silky hair. The 
body should be comparatively short and 
compact, muscular, and set on rather 



THE CHOICE OF A BEEED 89 

short, strong legs. The coat may be 
black, red, liver, and combinations; in 
texture, straight or slightly waved, 
silky, dense, and well ''feathered'' like 
a setter. The general impression is 
that of a wide-awake little dog, merry, 
sturdy and enduring. 

TEE ENGLISH SETTER 

Primarily, setters are of course hunt- 
ing dogs, and in that capacity they find 
their most congenial and successful oc- 
cupation. But there is no reason why, 
with ordinary care and an occasional 
long run in the woods and fields, an 
English setter should not be absolutely 
healthy and a source of constant satis- 
faction to his owner, even though the 
latter may lack the opportunity or in- 
clination to go shooting. It is not the 
case, as many people seem to believe, 
that a dog which has been trained and 
used for actual field work on birds is 
in any degree spoiled for ordinary life 



90 TEAINING THE DOG 

about tlie home. Among tlie most satis- 
factory and likable dogs I have ever 
known were setters wMch during tbe 
shooting season were used actively in 
the field, and throughout the balance of 
the year filled most acceptably the 
place of the ordinary general purpose 
dog. The character of a good specimen 
of the breed leaves little or nothing to 
be desired ; he is full of intelligence and 
common sense, learns readily, has a 
kindly though courageous disposition 
that makes him an ideal dog about the 
place or on walks and tramps afield, and 
forms very strong attachments to his 
master and other persons with whom he 
may come in frequent contact. In fact, 
I doubt if there is any other breed that 
develops a stronger and truer love for 
man, or more quickly appreciates and 
repays wise, kindly treatment. 

As a watchdog the English setter 
ranks high, and his reliability of dis- 
position makes him a safe companion 



THE CHOICE OF A BREED 91 

for children. There is about him noth- 
ing of that semi-treacherous meanness 
which makes certain other breeds so 
undesirable, and his general air of big- 
heartedness is sure to endear him to all 
who can recognize a good dog when they 
see one. 

The English setter yields to none in 
symmetry and grace of outline, beauty 
of coat and attractive expression. His 
head should be long and with a pro- 
nounced **stop,'* as the break in profile 
at the eyes is termed. The skull is 
broad and shows plenty of brain room; 
ears of moderate length, set on low and 
hanging close to the cheeks. The eyes 
should be bright and kindly in expres- 
sion, of good size, and dark hazel in 
color. Nothing detracts more from the 
pleasing effect of the head than light- 
colored eyes. The muzzle is quite deep, 
long from the stop to the point of the 
nose, and rather square, while the jaws 
are of equal length. The body should 



92 TEAINING THE DOG 

be moderately long, loins wide, strong 
and sligMIy arched, and the chest deep. 
The feet are very compact and well 
padded, and the legs strong. The tail 
is, or should be, one of the setter's most 
beautiful adornments. A good speci- 
men will carry his tail straight from 
where it leaves the body, for a curve in 
any direction is objectionable. It is of 
moderate length and bears that long, 
silken **flag'' or ^^feather'' which, to my 
mind, is the most striking single feature 
of the dog's appearance. There is also 
a pronounced **feather" on the backs 
of the front and hind legs, but nowhere 
on the dog should the hair show any 
marked tendency to curl, although a 
slight waviness is permissible. 

The color and markings of English 
setters vary considerably with the dif- 
ferent strains, and even dogs of the 
same litter frequently differ widely in 
these respects. The generally accepted 
combinations of color are as follows: 



THE CHOICE OF A BREED 93 

white and black, white and lemon, white 
and liver, white and orange, and tri- 
color, or white, tan and black. The 
darker color may be in patches of 
greater or less size, or in tiny spots 
which give the dog a flecked appearance. 
All of these combinations look well, so 
the intending purchaser has to consult 
merely his individual preference in the 
matter. In the case of the light-colored 
dogs perhaps a slight amount of extra 
care is required to keep their coats look- 
ing well. 

If you cannot keep a setter in the 
country, or at least in a small town 
where the open country is close enough 
to be available for exercising purposes, 
do not try to keep one at all. A city 
is no place for these large, open-air 
dogs, and to compel one to pass his days 
within the gloomy confines of stone and 
plaster blocks is but a refined form of 
actual cruelty. 



94 TEAINING THE DOG 

Here, then, are six types of dog that 
I consider to be among the best for the 
sort of people to whom this book is ad- 
dressed. Of course there are others, 
but they have little place here. I have 
purposely avoided the toy breeds, the 
purely hunting dogs, a few universally 
known breeds such as the fox terrier, 
and some others which, although lend- 
ing themselves fairly well to the sort of 
training advocated in this book, have 
certain qualities which preclude unquali- 
fied recommendation. 



IX 

The Dog's Quaeters 

GENERALLY speaking, you can 
hardly give a normally healthy, 
sound dog of almost any breed too much 
fresh air and outdoors. Some of the 
toy kinds, it is true, and many of those 
pampered pets that are bundled up in 
sweaters, boots and goggles before be- 
ing taken out for an airing, can prob- 
ably exist in a hothouse atmosphere in- 
definitely, but they are hardly dogs 
within the present meaning of the word. 
The real dog craves the open air, and 
if you live in the country you will do 
well to provide him with suitable quar- 
ters outdoors where he may be left fre- 
quently if not habitually. 

Briefly, the ideal outdoor quarters 
should consist of a dry, sheltered ken- 

95 



96 TRAINING THE DOG 

nel surrounded by a yard of size propor- 
tionate to that of the dog. One of the 
best and warmest kennels consists of a 
barrel laid on its side, half filled with 
clean straw or hay, and pr-ovided with 
an adequate covering to keep out snow 
and rain. It is not picturesque, but in- 
expensive and comfortable. Its chief 
value lies in its warmth, for the shape 
is such that the dog unavoidably 
snuggles down in the center in the 
straw, and the heat of his body has to 
cover only a limited space. This princi- 
ple can of course be applied in the mak- 
ing of a more pretentious kennel, but, 
especially in cases where it is advisable 
that the dog be kept in the stable or 
other outbuilding, the barrel pure and 
simple is quite satisfactory. 

It is far preferable that a dog be kept 
in a yard than that he be chained, espe- 
cially when he must be confined for con- 
siderable periods. A collar and chain 
are bound to be more or less of a drag 



THE DOG'S QUAETEES 97 

on him, but if for any reason a yard 
cannot be supplied, the chain may be 
fastened to a sliding ring slipped over 
a long, strong wire attached to two 
stakes in the ground, thus making a 
sort of ^Hrolley" whereby the dog can 
get considerable exercise. If a yard is 
feasible, it should be not less than 
twenty by twenty feet — larger if pos- 
sible — and so built that there is no pos- 
sibility of the dog escaping from it. A 
good method of construction is to set in 
two-by-four posts every ten feet, con- 
nect their bases with ten-inch boards 
placed on edge and sunk flush with the 
ground to prevent the dog digging un- 
der them, and surround the whole with 
the heaviest grade of poultry wire, five 
feet high, stapling it firmly to boards 
as well as posts. Make provision for a 
gate at one comer of the yard, and at 
the top of each post place a bracket in 
such a way that a strip of eighteen-inch 
poultry wire may be run entirely around 



98 TKAINING THE DOG 

the top of the yard, projecting inward 
horizontally or with a slight upward 
slant, so as to form an efficient barrier 
against the dog climbing np the side of 
the yard as if on a ladder and escaping 
over the top. For large, powerful dogs, 
one of the many makes of woven animal 
fencing should be used in place of the 
poultry wire. 

Although, as I have said, outdoor 
quarters are the best for the majority 
of hardy dogs even during quite severe 
weather, there are very many cases 
where, for good and sufficient reasons, 
it is desirable that the dog be kept 
in the house. Here a regular sleeping 
place should always be provided for 
him, such as a straw-filled box or an old, 
soft rug in some out-of-the-way corner. 
Be careful not to have it in a drafty 
place, for dogs that have become ac- 
customed to spending a large part of 
their time indoors are more susceptible 
to catching cold than are their open-air 



THE DOG'S QUAETEES 99 

brothers. Take care, too, not to require 
your dog to spend some of Ms nights 
indoors and some outside; the change 
from warmth to cold would be too rad- 
ical a one for him to undergo without 
risk. 

The straw or hay in kennel or box 
should be renewed once a week, and 
especially during cold weather be sure 
that the supply is abundant so that the 
dog may make a sort of nest in it. In 
spring, summer and early fall at least 
a few fleas are almost sure to be pres- 
ent, but their numbers can be kept 
within bounds by changing the bedding, 
sifting naphthaline flakes into it, and 
washing the dog once or twice a week 
with a good carbolic soap. 

Finally, remember that dampness, 
drafts (a real wind does little harm — 
it's the drafts that are dangerous) and 
dirt are the three prime things that 
must not be tolerated in a dog's quar- 
ters. 



X 

General Cabe 

OEDINARILY sound dogs that are 
not so finely bred as to be delicate 
are surprisingly free from ailments if 
they have access to exercise, proper 
food and a constant supply of good 
drinking water. Let us consider these 
requirements in turn. 

First as to exercise. Precisely as in 
the case of children, this is essential to 
good appetite, good spirits, and a 
sturdy, healthy growth. Any active dog 
ought to have a half -hour ^s freedom to 
run about every day in the year, with 
a longer period whenever possible. 
This should not be given, however, if it 
means the dog's going about without 
any supervision on your part. Unless 

100 



GENEEAL CAEE 101 

you can go with him, or at least keep 
an eye on his activities, he is more than 
apt to fall into the decidedly harmful 
practice of spending his period of free- 
dom in loafing about the street or the 
neighbors' back yards, eventually get- 
ting himself, you and the neighbors into 
mutual difficulties. In the out-and-out 
country, or on places where the sur- 
rounding grounds are extensive, the 
case is of course different, though even 
here you will do well to have a general 
idea of where the dog is at any time. 

On the other hand, don't overdo the 
matter of exercise and run the dog un- 
til he is ready to drop. Take care, too, 
not to exercise him too violently in 
warm weather, for here again he is 
much like a person in the harmful re- 
sults that may follow. 

The question of proper food is too 
often disregarded by dog owners. A 
dog's digestive apparatus is a very deli- 



102 TEAINING THE DOG 

cate piece of macHnery, seldom giving 
trouble when well cared for, but sub- 
ject to serious disorders if neglected. 
Wholesome, nourishing food, given at 
regular intervals, is absolutely essential 
to continued well-being. 

Inasmuch as the character of a dog's 
stomach changes as he grows from 
puppyhood to maturity, so should the 
quantity, kind, and frequency of his 
food be varied. A young puppy should 
be fed dry bread soaked in milk, a little 
well cooked cereal, small quantities of 
boiled green vegetables (never feed 
potatoes in any form to a dog of any 
age) and, as he reaches the age of ten 
weeks or so, a little lean meat may be 
boiled in with the rest of his food, and 
an occasional bone given him to gnaw 
on. From six to twelve weeks of age, 
feed four times a day, giving the pup 
enough to satisfy him at each meal, but 
never allowing him to gorge himself. 



GENEEAL CARE 103 

After feeding, let Mm rest, for reasons 
explained on a former page. 

By the time the pup is three months 
old, he should be receiving very little 
milk. Its place may be taken by a 
slightly increased quantity of lean meat, 
and an additional variety of other food 
such as boiled rice, manufactured 
puppy cakes, and any well boiled green 
vegetables. An excellent food to be 
given now, and indeed throughout the 
balance of the dog's life, is a rather 
thick soup made of rice, vegetables and 
lean meat in about the proportions of 
2-3-1. Give also a large bone once or 
twice a week, always avoiding chicken 
bones or others that may splinter and 
cause internal troubles; and constantly 
have within his reach a pan of good 
clean drinking water containing one- 
thirtieth of its bulk of lime water. 
This diet can be continued permanently, 
cutting down the meals to three a day 



104 TEAINING THE DOG 

at five months, and two at one year, the 
heaviest meal being given at night. 

At the age of six or eight weeks prac- 
tically every pnppy is afflicted with in- 
ternal worms. There are many symp- 
toms of the presence of these parasites : 
irregular appetite, often accompanied 
by an unnatural craving for foreign 
substances such as straws, pieces of 
coal, refuse, etc.; thinness and a harsh, 
staring coat; uneasiness and whining 
evidently caused by internal discomfort ; 
a tendency to crawl into dark corners; 
etc. The remedy is simple, and consists 
of any standard dog vermifuge which 
can be obtained at all drug stores. 
Even if you do not definitely suspect the 
presence of worms in the pup, it is well 
to give him the vermifuge, administer- 
ing it in accordance with the directions 
on the bottle. It can do no possible 
harm, and will probably do a lot of good. 

As for any real ailments from which 
your dog may suffer from time to time. 



GENEBAL CAEE 105 

I strongly advise that you consult a re- 
liable veterinary promptly unless you 
have had experience with that par- 
ticular trouble. For while it is true 
that dogs are subject to many of the 
same troubles as are human beings, re- 
sponding in many cases to similar treat- 
ment, yet the dangers of an erroneous 
diagnosis are too great to be lightly 
run. 

A good warm bath with dog soap is of 
course a periodical necessity for all dogs 
whose owners make any pretensions to 
caring for them properly. Once every 
week or ten days is usually often enough 
for the dog whose activities do not take 
him into too intimate acquaintanceship 
with Mother Earth, and after washing 
be sure to dry him thoroughly lest he 
take cold. 

In conclusion, let me emphasize again 
the importance of a principle which 
I have endeavored to make evident 



106 TEAINING THE DOG 

throughout this book: Common sense. 
A good dog is the best friend a human 
being can have, and he deserves the best 
treatment that his master can give. 



THE EN-D 



